It occurred to me in the latter part of last evening that I had yet to plaster my favorite looks across this page - let alone with accompanying lyrics. New York, and London have since passed and Milan is creeping along. I'm a little behind. While normally I post collection by collection of which I'm loving, bestowed below you'll find my collages compiled of images by trend. (All images from Style.com)
LeSport (minus the sac)
Upon first viewing, I thought those white Fendi booties were actually suede high top sneakers - they're not, which doesn't even detract from the faux athleticism occurring. The Prada show wasn't as clear cut compared to last season, but in turn would clothe a variety of different players. I'm convinced Christopher Kane, who designed the middle and far right looks, is indeed the British version of Alexander Wang. His innovative page turning book inspired ruffle technique truly added another dimension to his collection. Lastly, Fay tapping into the psyches of the girls who want to be shot by Tommy Ton so badly that they would be just as jubilant as the Snoopy birds plastering their chest.
Knits and Purls
Starting at far left, in Helmut Lang, we can see how comfortable the model truly is, eyes closed about to take the briefest siesta of all siestas. Whereas The Row said forget the turtleneck, with a neck so large that it extends to mid back (I'm going to go ahead and refer to this one as the Rhino neck). No. 21 must have read my note about fringe, because that shaggy sweater is better than any 70's carpet. A. Detacher incorporated a nonchalant waist tie worked into an already effortlessly wearable jumper. Chris Kane, at it again but this time with ruffled knits and dainty detailing. Francisco Costa stepping up his game in what I'm deeming the resurgence of Calvin Klein - occurred with a plethora of cashmere and mohair knits paired with lug sole horse hair combat boots.
Utilitarian vs. Copious Coats
I want to wear this No. 21 cattle coat whilst hugging the Chick-Fil-a cow, or standing in an open field in Texas. The embellished detailing on the shoulders reminds me of backpack straps. This Simone Rocha coat, and the Belstaff (far right) have similar pocket placement, but the Rochas girl is set apart by playful Elizabethan inspired oversized sleeve ruffles. No. 21 undoubtedly earning a sequin encrusted medal for their coat game this season with this number, a matching sequin polo is also available FYI. One thing I continue to admire about Fendi is their undeniable ability to use their fur scraps in such a way that it appears to be their first intended purpose - maybe it is what do I know? Finally, Belstaff whose images prompted me to tweet about how I wished my hair and mittens would always look this good. Additionally, I would like my coat and boots to always look this good.
Lite Brite
Slightly brighter, yet safe enough for those to play freely with color. Starting with 3.1 Phillip Lim who used pink shearling in the form of an elongated boxy vest. Thakoon who sent down a blue based plaid, with a casually wrapped neck and zipper trim. With accents of reddish orange and baby tassels singing to my soul at every step, Delpozo continues to really understand me, or contrarily maybe I really understand them. While not really all that bright - the compilation of stripes in every which direction, add to the mirage of cascading ruffles at Richard Chai Love. Without a doubt, this has been my favorite Prabal Gurung collection to date. The colors, the knits, the drapery... streaker or no streaker, the collection was phenomenal. Promulgating the average working man with more convince-ability than eHarmony, Rag & Bone showed lumberjack plaid, mechanics jackets, and baggy red detailed boots with mary jane like detailing.
Miss Misc-yMisc-y
When I collaged the above photos together I saved the file as "miscymiscy" I'm going to be blunt and state that I don't really know what I'm trying to say with this image. These looks compliment each other well, and wouldn't really fit any where else. First up, Proenza Schouler - sculpted stark white leather, multi-print skater dress, with shoes so sensible you almost disregard their price tag. The Suno collection overall was very strong, with both textural and visual elements, including this navy polka dot mid length sheath. Marques'Almeida, who showed multiple Canadian tuxedos creating them in a way in which I had never seen before. It had me trying to figure out how I could make something so shredded and similar. The next look is Fendi, where Karl Lagerfeld used patchwork detailing in the most lavish way. Suno again, this time the ethnic inspiration clear with metallic embroidery and a skirt that was laced up on the each side.
Orange Juice
I'm tired of seeing captions stating "Orange is the New Black" whether it's regarding the TV show or the trendy color for fall. Orange is not and will never be the new black. That's not to say that I don't like a pop of tangerine, or a tangy glass with extra pulp. Mark Fast nailed the hue in a robe-like coat with its oversized sleeves and collar. While not entirely orange, Delpozo was behind brighter shades for fall as well. Ostwald Helgason addressed the color with a sportier aesthetic, and a bit of shimmer in copper tones. The athletic inspired trim on the skirt really completes this look IMO. A sense of raw exorbitance was expressed through bright hand woven tapestry like materials, seen at Altuzarra.
Text-Text-Textures & Textiles
I think one of the most exciting things about fashion is the experimental nature of the designers who are are not afraid of that particular insurmountable force, as well as the textiles used. Proenza boys, Alex Wang - I'm looking at you. Jack McCollough and Lazarro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, played with building insulation inspired jacquards, woodgrain and speckled prints. The prints layered together with voluminous shoulders and sleek silhouettes, of which were all incredibly wearable. Also the fact that the show was set to Missy Elliot, you have to watch it. This look from Rodebjer captured my eye with what appeared to be a casually tossed blanket around the shoulders, paired with the fluidity of the layers on the lower half. Continuing my praise for Alexander Wang, he showed innovative color changing heat activated materials, a leather coat with an uneven raw edge, boot x mules, camp-gear pockets, and quilted pillow top knits, I could go on and on. Go watch this too. Well done Wang. Lastly, we spoke about Prabal Gurung earlier on, this look accompanied with a cropped fur, scarf tied oh so-so, and jacquard knit with bright white contrasting trim. Each expanding their horizon, thus allowing them to truly stand out in a pool of so many designers. Kudos.
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