Fashion Month is nearing it's end, but the past two days in Paris have been giving me new life - even thousands of miles away in New York. From blue-grey palettes and emerald offerings, to prints so good they'd turn a solid girl into a printed lady, bordeaux in feather form, an athletic aesthetic so bright it almost singlehandedly convinces you to go to the gym, cloaked cashmere that seems suit for this never ending winter, and knits tied and layered so well that it prompts smiles from even the models.
New Hue
Julien David showed fuzzy woolen bomber jackets with matching skirts and the clunkiest Birkenstock style sandals. Phoebe Philo was like I'm going to make all of these girls want to be one of my girls, and that is exactly what she did. The Celine woman eludes a distinct brand of effortless energy, clad in clothes that feel so right now - gingham turtleneck dress + blazer/dress with oversized embellishment, and will continue to feel right for years. Acne's collection garnered attention through their risky silhouettes - can we get a heck yeah for those huge hats? At Viktor & Rolf, through there surrealist meets kitschy take on the season, I picture them saying faux bralette that forms faux peplum but lets do it with culottes. It's a conversation that makes sense in my head, and apparently in their heads too, but most importantly through the clothes.
Emerald Club
Isabel Marant does something very similar to Phoebe Philo, in terms of making you want to assume the brands very same identity. Upon clicking through images from the show I thought this is a physical manifestation of the modern urban warrior. Make of that what you will. If we are still actualizing a modern warrior then look no further then Aquilano.Rimondi That coat is not beaded, but rather adorned with three dimensional metal flowers. Often times I believe that Marni does not receive enough credit for the truly remarkable pieces Consuelo Castiglioni produces. This is in turn one of those times - from an ombre trail of feathers, to that boxy emerald neoprene skirt suit paired with those bright white pointy metallic trim loafers. Dries Van Noten shined with metallic optic prints, with pieces that were two parts wearable and three parts funky fresh. Julien David balanced a basic black jacket with a dress full of fun in fringe formation.
All Good Things in Bordeaux
Lanvin brought flapper fringe to new-age NOW, through fringe ascending down tops, skirts and coats all in a different matter. Marni continues to be 150% Marni, this time with a full on fringed feather top paired with what would have been just a basic skirt - that now suddenly seems like something more. Aquilano.Rimondi continues with metal additives this time on bordeaux dress, that would look oh so good over a charcoal turtleneck. Peter Copping does amazing things at Nina Ricci, with a collection that is equal parts wearable, provocative, and elegant. What could be a maroon plaid blanket is currently moonlighting as a blanket coat at Etro, but to make matters even better, look at those boots, look at the fringe tassel necklace. Just look at those looks.
Plenty of Prints
While everyone was on the same Fall florals page, each print is remarkably different. We'll start with Marni who did a black based floral with splotches of pale pink and green. Next up at Issa, with an eye-catching emerald and Pepto pink sash. Rochas with a smaller black based floral, this one with more of an ethnic feel, with fleurs in deep violet and bordeaux, paired with buttery leather dish gloves. Dries Van Noten made me want to book the next flight to Hawaii with bright and orange and navy florals with the fur, with the fur. (sung to Low by Flo Rida). The burnt orange layered sunflowers over gingham at Stella Jean seemed so definitive of Fall.
Athletic Shade
From the palette de Americana at both Iceberg and Jacquemus - let freedom ring. The Jacquemus girl (3rd and 4th lewks) - always has a certain confident sporty je ne sais quoi - this season was no exception. Meanwhile let us backtrack to Dior where Raf Simons continues to be the Andy Warhol of Paris with pops of color that seem so right, and color combinations that the average mind would have never considered ex: draped and ruffled vibrant red and pink, and that cobalt vest paired with the sportiest of pumps.
Parisian Ease
Casual elegance through looks that seemed so indicative of the effortless nature of the French. Starting at Celine, with a thick long olive green rib knit paired with a skirt and creepers in the same hue. The Chloe show prompted one single tear to fall from my left eye upon its closure, from the draped baby pink coat, to the cascading silk ruffled dress, to the leather boots with a tongue that seemed like a gentle jab at the sneaker wedge, I didn't want it to ever end. Maison Rabih Kayrouz continued the trend with long nubby knit coats, draped gingham, and a luxurious silk dress only elevated by the large simple tie up top.
Swaddled Knits
Just keep knitting, Just keep knitting. Whether it be a turtleneck, or layered and tied, I want to be wrapped and cloaked in all of these looks if at all possible. Starting a Barbara Bui with an ecru poncho like braided and rib knit turtleneck. Layers formed visually through a thick wrapped and tied scarf atop a white sweater of the same variety at Sonia Rykiel. Knitted yak wool and denim, beige and deep olive, necks and knees covered, Christophe Lemaire is the unsung hero of knitwear. Ter et Bantine in eggshell, with a cropped turtleneck, over short choppy layers and a long mid-calf skirt over leggings. Lastly grey blanket like coats with fluffy fringe where Issey Miyake summed it up best by stating, "Cloth harbours the power of life: wrap yourself in it and feel an instantaneous metamorphosis into pure joy at the wonder of living."
All images from Style.com & Nowfashion - links accordingly.
Part III of Fashion Month to follow.
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